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Laos >> Four Thousand Islands (Si Phan Don) Travel Guides
Four Thousand Islands (Si Phan Don)
This is the name given to a 50km-long stretch of the Mekong in Champasak Province near the border with Cambodia. In the rainy season, this part of the Mekong River swells to a width of about 14km, and is the widest point along the entire length of the river. In the dry season, the river retreats and exposes hundreds (or thousands) of islands and islets. It is not known if there are actually four thousand islands there, or not.
The largest islands in the river have permanent habitation, with Don Khong being the largest, and communities on these islands are generally self-sustaining. Of course they catch fish, and also grow rice, sugar cane, coconut and vegetables, and also do their own textile weaving.
Life on these islands is very relaxed and laid-back, with much sleeping in hammocks. The islands give a captivating look into the unhurried life of villages on the river. However, as with other places that attract numbers of tourists, life on the islands is changing, especially with the advent of the electrification of the islands.
Don Det is very popular with backpackers, with its inexpensive guesthouses, restaurant-bars, and pool tables. Don Khong has more upscale accommodation, with Don Khon coming somewhere in the middle. Villages here are usually named for their location in regard to their being on the upriver end (hua), or down-river end (hang) of the island. Ban Hua Khong is at the northern (upstream) end of Don Khong, and Ban Hang Khong is at the southern (down-stream) end.

What To See
The best way to see the islands in by cycling or by motorcycle. The larger inhabited islands have several wats, some ancient, some new. Don Khong has rice fields and vegetable gardens, and low hills in the center of the island, and there is a dawn market at Muang Khong.
There are the remains of a short railway built by the French on Don Det and Don Khon, and you can see river piers, an old bridge, a couple of rusting locomotives, and some crumbling French Colonial buildings.
The famous, and highly endangered, Irrawaddy dolphins are increasingly rare. They used to number in their thousands in 1970s, but now it is estimated there are less than 100 animals left. They now only inhabit the Mekong from the border, south to Kratie in Cambodia. There are dolphin watching tours from Don Khon, with the best times being in the early morning or late afternoon. 
Just off Don Khon are the rapids known as the Li Phi Falls. These are a raging set of rapids, especially in the rainy season. There are also huge bamboo fish traps positioned in the rapids.
Boat trips to Pakse, including Wat Phu Champasak, Uo Moung and Khon Phapheng Falls leave from Don Khong.  
A boat racing festival is held in early December at Don Khong. It is accompanied by a carnival like atmosphere for four or five days, with the races on the final day.